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Tracing its origins back to garments worn by gentlemen to ward their fine evening clothes against ash and tobacco smoke, the smoking jacket is synonymous with the comforts of home and the refined seclusion of a stately drawing room or library.
Included amongst these riches were coffee, textiles, spices, and tobacco, and the elites of Europe were not content with merely owning these treasures: they wished to exhibit them as well. One such article can be considered, in some respects, the spiritual precursor to the smoking jacket.
By the early 19th century, however, smoking tobacco, in a pipe or as a cigar or cigarette, had increased in popularity, and it was a common sight at parties or quiet evenings at home to see men retire to a drawing room or den to chat and indulge in a smoke. Many homes even featured designated smoking rooms. But this new trend had serious implications for the wardrobes of those who participated.
It should be stressed that a robe-de-chambre was not and is not a smoking jacket, although it could serve a similar function. The smoking jacket evolved from the robe-de-chambre, and developed as a purpose-intended garment that soon deviated from its predecessor.
For instance, because the smoking jacket was not intended primarily for warmth, its skirt shrank from full length to mid-thigh. Likewise, because lighter fabrics could be easily singed, heavier silks and velvet soon became the favored fabric for smoking jackets.
Easier access to modish Turkish cigars following the conclusion of the Crimean War in 1856 cemented the popularity of smoking, and the smoking jacket was a ubiquitous sight in menswear. The archives of the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York City feature a dazzling array of smoking jackets from throughout the 19th century that can be accessed online.
Desiring to enjoy the plush comforts of the smoking jacket in more formal spaces, in 1865 Albert Edward commissioned from Henry Poole of Saville Row a new style of evening jacket that could be worn at private dinners.
The smoking jacket soon underwent further evolutions following its introduction to the Black Tie scene. Button closures would sometimes replace sashes or frogs, for added formality, and the jacket was often cut closer to the body. Eventually, these more heavily modified versions of the smoking jacket became a new and distinct garment, the dinner jacket.
The smoking jacket continued to be worn, both as a domestic garment and a Black Tie alternative, into the 20th century. By the 1920s and 1930s, it underwent further stylistic variations, including the popularization of peaked lapel varieties, drawing from the contemporary development of the dinner jacket.
In the public psyche, smoking jackets remained associated with social elites, and in addition to the magnates and millionaires of the time, celebrities, especially singers and film stars, were foremost in that cadre.
Film stars like Clark Gable or William Powell would often appear, on camera and off, in smoking jackets or similar robes-de-chambre, reviving in the minds of their audience the ideal of the stately gentleman in his luxurious robe.
He often wore a smoking jacket at home, but also while performing. In doing so, Coward conveyed to his audience a sense of intimate camaraderie, as though they were guests in his residence as he performed.
Fred Astaire was an American actor, singer, and dancer who dressed as aristocratically as the likes of Noel Coward, but often adopted a more humble demeanor. Nevertheless, he was able to wear a smoking jacket with style, on the screen and in real life.In fact, Astaire was so devoted to the smoking jacket that upon his death in 1987, it was said that he was buried in his favorite one.
In the 1950s, the smoking jacket moved beyond the refined air of domesticity and became increasingly associated with raucous fun and wild evenings, and eager progenitors of this movement were the members of The Rat Pack.
An informal association of entertainers, The Rat Pack, led primarily by Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis, Jr., regularly sported smoking jackets while performing or partying in Las Vegas casinos or Los Angeles penthouses.
Hefner attempted to portray himself as a luxurious playboy, and thus co-opted both the elegant and the intimate associations of the smoking jacket, turning it into something of an avatar of his brand and the lifestyle he was selling his readers.
As the 20th century wore on, the smoking jacket declined in popularity due to a variety of converging factors. The increasing casualization of menswear particularly affected purpose-intended garments, like the smoking jacket; as men owned fewer and fewer suits, it made less sense to invest in a garment that served one particular, relatively esoteric function.
Declining interest in recreational tobacco smoking, which accelerated in the 1990s, also contributed to the decline of the smoking jacket. As the number of smokers, especially in North America, decreased in general, fewer and fewer men maintained the somewhat ritualized approach to tobacco enjoyment typified by the smoking jacket. Finally, the popular connection between smoking jackets and the decadent lifestyle peddled in magazines like Playboy may have discouraged the use of the smoking jacket, as it was assumed to be lewd or tacky.
In the January / February issue of 1999, noted periodical Cigar Aficionado declared that the smoking jacket was returning in a big way among smoking enthusiasts. Image Credit: Cigar Aficionado Magazine
Despite its relative decline in popularity, the smoking jacket has persisted through the 20th century, and there is certainly a place for it in 21st-century menswear. You should not assume that this garment must be consigned to thrown-together fancy party costumes; it remains a viable fashion choice, as illustrated by the men of style who have kept the smoking jacket alive today.
Those who enjoy a smoke in style are largely responsible for the persistent relevance of the smoking jacket, especially as the garment is as good at protecting your clothes from ash and smoke today as it was in the 19th century. Smoking jackets are a relatively common sight at cigar bars or anywhere tobacco enthusiasts gather.
For those who love Black Tie, the smoking jacket offers a unique opportunity to add unexpected color and texture to a formal ensemble. A Black Tie alternative smoking ensemble, worn properly on the right occasions, can be a sure sign of a dedicated formal menswear insider and is a favored look for many menswear influencers.
There are essentially two varieties of contemporary smoking jackets that vary in their styling and the occasions for which they are appropriate. Most often, these jackets are classified by their closure method.
The older sash-style smoking jacket closely resembles its progenitor, the robe-de-chambre. It is closed with a belted sash usually made from the same material as the jacket, although a different material can be employed. Tassels and other decorative elements may also be present on the belt.
A sash smoking jacket often has little or no structure and a looser drape. In general, it is considered a more informal garment. It is sometimes informally grouped with lounge robes or lounge suits and may be identified as such.
Buttoned smoking jackets more closely resemble dinner jackets and tend to be more structured and tailored in fit. The buttons, sometimes oversized, are usually covered in fabric that is either black, dark-toned, or matches or compliments the jacket. Because of their association with dinner jackets, buttoned smoking jackets are generally considered more formal.
Single-breasted smoking jackets can often be found in 1, 2, or 3 button configurations, although a single button is the most traditional.Double-breasted varieties are less common but usually feature a 4 x 2 or 6 x 2 configuration, although in some vintage models 2 x 1 is typical.
Frogging refers to braiding that can decorate the buttons or toggles of a smoking jacket. It provides unique visual interest to the garment and often helps to set smoking jackets apart from dinner jackets.
Smoking jackets can vary in length from breaking at the knee to breaking similarly to a suit jacket. However, the most classical length will land around the mid-thigh.In general, a sash smoking jacket will have a longer skirt, while a buttoned smoking jacket will more closely resemble the length of a dinner jacket. Generally, any length beyond the mid-thigh will be considered more informal and most suitable for home wear.
Colors like mustard, brown, gray, purple, and bright shades of blue and red have become more popular for smoking jackets since the 2000s and as such present a slightly more au-currant appearance. That being said, it should be noted that many of these colors were also seen in 19th-century smoking jackets, illustrating the cyclical nature of fashion.
Collars made from the same material as the jacket will usually be either the same color or a color from the same family, although complementary or contrasting colors are not unknown.Collars made from different materials from the jacket are discussed in greater detail below.
In addition to solid colors typical of velvet examples, there are several patterns usually associated with silk smoking jackets. A classic pattern can be very fetching, but be aware that anything too complex could be distracting, especially in a public setting.
Smoking jackets can be made from nearly any fabric, but an important consideration will be the desired use of the jacket. If you intend to use your smoking jacket for smoking, a functional fabric like velvet or heavy silk is strongly encouraged. Otherwise, a wider variety of fabrics can be employed for jackets that are styled like a smoking jacket but will not be worn primarily when smoking.
Many lightweight fabrics, like linen or certain weaves of cotton, can make excellent summer robes or bathing wraps but lack